Annapurna sanctuary - trek in Nepal

Pokhara: what to see, what to do, and how to reach your trek

Pokhara is Nepal’s second city and the gateway to the Annapurnas. It lies 200 km west of Kathmandu, at 820 m, on the shore of Phewa Lake. You get there in 6 to 8 hours by bus or 25 minutes by plane. Plan two days there, before or after your trek.

Pokhara in figures

  • Altitude: 820 m, which is 600 m lower than Kathmandu. It is warmer and more humid.
  • Population: about 500,000 people.
  • Distance from Kathmandu: 200 km on the Prithvi Highway, 6 to 8 hours by bus.
  • Peaks visible from the city: Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South, Machapuchare (6,993 m), Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) on a clear day.
  • Climate: subtropical. 25 to 35 °C from April to September, 15 to 20 °C during the day in winter with cool nights around 5 °C. It is one of the wettest cities in the country during the monsoon, from June to September.

What to see and do in Pokhara

Phewa Lake and Lakeside

Phewa Lake is the second largest lake in Nepal. The Lakeside district, on its eastern shore, is where the hotels, restaurants and trekking gear shops are. This is where you will stay. Hire a wooden rowing boat (one hour is enough) to reach the small Tal Barahi temple, on an island in the middle of the lake. In the morning, when the air is still, the Annapurnas are reflected in the water.

The World Peace Pagoda

This white stupa, built by Japanese Buddhist monks and opened in 1999, looks down over the lake from the hill opposite. You walk up in 45 minutes to an hour from the south shore of the lake, after crossing by boat. The view takes in everything: the lake, the city and the Annapurna range. Go in the late afternoon.

Sarangkot: sunrise and paragliding

Sarangkot is a ridge at 1,600 m north-west of the city. You go up by taxi (30 minutes) or on foot (a 3-hour climb) to watch the sun rise over the Annapurnas and Machapuchare. Leave at around 5 am in autumn and winter. It is also the take-off point for paragliding flights: 20 to 30 minutes of tandem flight with a pilot, landing by the lake. Pokhara is one of the best paragliding sites in the world thanks to its stable thermals.

Devi’s Fall and Gupteshwor Cave

South of the city, the Pardi River disappears into a chasm: this is Devi’s Fall, spectacular during and just after the monsoon, more modest in winter. Right opposite, Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave houses a shrine to Shiva and a passage that leads under the waterfall. Allow one hour for both sites.

The International Mountain Museum

Opened in 2004, this museum tells the story of the great Himalayan ascents, the mountain peoples of Nepal and the geology of the range. You can see period expedition gear and a model of Manaslu. It is a good visit on rainy days, and good preparation before setting off on a trek.

The old bazaar and Begnas Lake

Away from Lakeside, Pokhara’s old bazaar, with its Newar houses and its Bindhyabasini temple, shows the city as it was before tourism. 15 km to the east, Begnas Lake is quieter than Phewa. Go there for half a day of rest after the trek.

How to get from Kathmandu to Pokhara

OptionDurationWhat you need to know
Tourist bus6 to 8 hoursLeaves around 7 am from Kantipath (Kathmandu), arrives at the Pokhara tourist bus park. Reserved seats, one or two meal stops. The road is beautiful but winding.
Private car or minibus5 to 7 hoursMore flexible, with possible stops at Manakamana or Bandipur. This is the option Mohan uses for his groups.
Plane25 minSeveral flights a day. View of the Himalayas on the right-hand side on the way there. Frequent delays in the monsoon.
Local bus7 to 9 hoursThe cheapest, the least comfortable. Best avoided with large bags.

Good to know: Pokhara has a new international airport, opened in January 2023, but international flights are still rare. In practice, you will always arrive via Kathmandu.

Pokhara, the starting point for Annapurna treks

Almost all the treks in the Annapurna range start one or two hours’ drive from Pokhara. That is what makes the city so practical: you can finish your trek in the morning and have dinner by the lake the same evening.

  • Annapurna Balcony: the Poon Hill trek (3,210 m), 4 to 6 days, ideal for a first time. Starts from Nayapul or Ulleri, 1 hour 30 minutes by road.
  • Mardi Himal: a ridge facing Machapuchare, up to 4,500 m at base camp. 5 to 8 days, starting from Kande or Phedi, 45 minutes from Pokhara.
  • Khopra Danda: less busy than Poon Hill, with the sacred Khayer Lake at 4,500 m as an option. 7 to 9 days.
  • Mohare Danda: a trek using community lodges, at 3,300 m, where the money stays in the villages. 5 to 7 days.
  • Annapurna Sanctuary: Annapurna Base Camp at 4,130 m, in an amphitheatre of peaks. 8 to 12 days.
  • Annapurna Circuit: it starts on the Besisahar side and ends on the Jomsom or Pokhara side, after the Thorong La pass (5,416 m). 12 to 18 days.

The permits for the area (ACAP and TIMS) can be obtained in Pokhara or Kathmandu. Your agency takes care of them. See our guide to trekking permits in Nepal.

How many days to plan in Pokhara

Two days are enough for the essentials: a sunrise at Sarangkot, the Peace Pagoda, a boat on the lake and an evening in Lakeside. Many trekkers spend one night there on the way out, to sleep and buy what they are missing, then two nights on the way back to rest. If you have more time, Chitwan National Park, 4 or 5 hours by road to the south, rounds off the trip well. To find out when in the year the views are clearest, read our article when to go to Nepal.

Frequently asked questions

What to do in Pokhara in two days?

Day 1: sunrise at Sarangkot, then paragliding or a visit to Devi’s Fall and Gupteshwor Cave. Day 2: a boat on Phewa Lake, the climb to the World Peace Pagoda, the mountain museum, and an evening in Lakeside.

How do you get to Pokhara from Kathmandu?

By tourist bus (6 to 8 hours, leaving in the morning), by private vehicle (5 to 7 hours) or by plane (25 minutes). The plane saves a day but flights are sometimes delayed by the weather.

What is the best time to visit Pokhara?

From October to December and from March to April, when the sky is clear and the Annapurnas can be seen from the lake. From June to September, the monsoon hides the mountains and it rains almost every day.

Can you see Everest from Pokhara?

No. Everest is 300 km to the east. From Pokhara, you can see the Annapurna range, Machapuchare and Dhaulagiri. For Everest, you have to reach the Khumbu via Lukla. See the list of treks to compare the two regions.

About the author
Mohan