Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal. The city lies at 1,400 m, in a valley that has seven UNESCO World Heritage sites. It is home to about 850,000 people, and more than 3 million including the wider urban area. Every trek in Nepal starts and ends here. Plan two days before departure and one day on your return.
Kathmandu at a glance
- Altitude: 1,400 m. The climate is mild: 20 to 30 °C during the day from April to October, 15 to 20 °C in winter, with nights close to 0 °C in December and January.
- Population: about 850,000 people in the city at the 2021 census, 3 to 4 million in the valley including Patan and Bhaktapur.
- Airport: Tribhuvan, 6 km from the centre, 20 to 40 minutes by taxi depending on traffic.
- Currency: the Nepali rupee (NPR). 1 euro is worth about 150 rupees, and the rate changes.
Thamel, the trekkers’ district
Thamel is the tourist district, north of the historic centre. Its narrow streets are lined with hotels, restaurants, trekking agencies, gear shops and souvenir shops. It is noisy, but practical: everything is less than ten minutes away on foot. Many streets have been closed to cars since 2017, which makes walking around more pleasant. Most agencies, including Mohan’s, have their office here. You are bound to pass through to get your bag ready.
Sights to see in Kathmandu
Durbar Square, the former royal palace
This is the heart of the old town, 15 minutes’ walk from Thamel. Carved wooden temples, the former palace of the Malla kings and the house of the Kumari, the living goddess. The earthquake of 25 April 2015 destroyed several monuments, including the Kasthamandap, the pavilion that gave the city its name. It was rebuilt exactly as it was in 2022, using the original techniques. Other temples are still being restored. The site is still very lively: market, offerings, pigeons and tea sellers.
Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple
This Buddhist stupa, at least 1,500 years old, looks down over the city from a hill to the west. You climb up a staircase of 365 steps, guarded by monkeys. The eyes of the Buddha painted on the tower look out in all four directions. From the top, you can see the whole valley. Go early in the morning, when pilgrims walk around the stupa.
Boudhanath, the great stupa
East of the city, Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world, with a dome 36 m high. It is the centre of Kathmandu’s Tibetan community. In the evening, hundreds of people walk around it clockwise, spinning the prayer wheels. The roof terraces of the cafes around the square give the best view. The stupa, cracked in 2015, was restored from 2016.
Pashupatinath, the temple of Shiva
The largest Hindu temple in Nepal, on the banks of the Bagmati River, near the airport. The main temple is open only to Hindus, but you can visit the rest of the site. Cremations take place on the ghats at all hours. It is a place of mourning: be discreet and do not take close-up photos of families. The sadhus, ascetics covered in ash, ask for a few rupees for a photo.
Patan and Bhaktapur, the two other royal cities
The valley had three kingdoms, and so three palaces. Patan, 5 km to the south, across the Bagmati, has the finest Durbar Square and a remarkable museum of Newar art. Bhaktapur, 13 km to the east, is a medieval town with almost no cars, with its potters’ squares and its five-roofed Nyatapola temple. Allow half a day for each. Bhaktapur even deserves a night’s stay.
All these sites charge foreigners an entry fee: between 200 and 1,800 rupees depending on the site, with Bhaktapur the most expensive. Keep some small change.
Practical information
Where to stay
Thamel for convenience, with hotels in every price range. For more peace and quiet, look at Lazimpat, to the north, or Boudhanath. Hotels with an inner courtyard are quieter. Ask for a room at the back, away from the street.
What to eat
Dal bhat is the national dish: rice, lentil soup, a vegetable curry and pickles, and you get as many refills as you like. You will eat it every day on the trek, so you may as well get used to it. Momos, steamed dumplings with meat or vegetables, are found everywhere. Milk tea (chiya) costs a few dozen rupees. Avoid tap water and ice cubes, and drink filtered or bottled water.
Changing money
The exchange offices in Thamel display their rates and take little commission. Cash machines often limit each withdrawal to 35,000 rupees (about 230 euros) and charge a 500-rupee fee. Withdraw or change enough money before the trek: there are almost no cash machines in the mountains, and you pay for everything in cash. Our budget guide details how much to take.
Buying or hiring trekking gear
Thamel sells everything you need: down jackets, sleeping bags, poles, water bottles. Most of the products are copies of brands, fine for a trek, less reliable for an expedition. A few shops sell genuine branded gear at European prices. Hiring a sleeping bag or a down jacket usually costs 1 to 2 dollars a day. See our gear list to know what to bring and what to hire locally.
SIM card and internet
There are two operators: Ncell and Nepal Telecom (NTC). You buy a SIM card at the airport or in Thamel with your passport and a passport photo. A 30-day plan with several dozen gigabytes costs less than 10 euros. NTC has better coverage in trekking areas, Ncell is faster in town. Lodge wifi is often paid and slow above 3,500 m.
Pollution and traffic: what to expect
Kathmandu is one of the most polluted cities in Asia, especially from November to April, when the air stagnates in the valley. Many Nepalis wear a mask on their scooters. If you have sensitive lungs, take one. Traffic is heavy, with no real traffic lights or pedestrian crossings: cross at the same pace as the locals, without running. Taxis have no meters, so agree the price before getting in. Local ride-hailing apps, such as Pathao or inDrive, save you the haggling.
How many days in Kathmandu?
Two days before the trek: one to recover from the flight, sort out the visa and permits and check your bag; one to see Durbar Square and Swayambhunath. One or two days afterwards: Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Bhaktapur, and gifts to take home. Always keep one spare day before your flight home, especially if you are coming back from Lukla, where flights are often delayed.
If you have three to five extra days and do not want to go to high altitude, the Kathmandu Valley trek links the Newar and Tamang villages in the hills around the city, between 1,500 and 2,700 m, with views of Langtang and Ganesh Himal. It is also a good warm-up before a big trek. All the other options are on our treks in Nepal page.
Frequently asked questions
What is the capital of Nepal?
Kathmandu, at 1,400 m in the centre of the country. It is the largest city in Nepal, with about 850,000 people, and has been the seat of government since the country was unified in 1768.
What to do in Kathmandu in two days?
Day 1: Durbar Square on foot from Thamel, then Swayambhunath at sunset. Day 2: Pashupatinath in the morning, Boudhanath in the late afternoon. If you have a third day, go to Bhaktapur.
Is Kathmandu a dangerous city?
No. Muggings are rare, even at night in Thamel. The real risks are traffic, pollution and stomach upsets. Be careful about what you eat, drink treated water and keep your valuables at the hotel.
How do you get from the airport to Thamel?
By prepaid taxi from the airport counter, in 20 to 40 minutes. Most agencies and hotels offer a transfer, with someone waiting for you at the exit holding a sign with your name. Ask Mohan for one when you book your trek.
