Mera Peak (6,476 m) is the higher of the two, but the less technical: a long snow slope with no vertical section. Island Peak (6,189 m) is lower, but its summit means climbing an ice wall on a fixed rope, then a narrow ridge. For a first 6,000 m peak, Mera suits a strong walker; Island Peak calls for an introduction to mountaineering.
Both summits are classed as “trekking peaks” by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The name is misleading: these are real climbs, with crampons, an ice axe and nights in a tent. They remain within reach of well-prepared non-climbers, led by a climbing guide. Here is how to choose.
The comparison in one table
| Criterion | Island Peak (Imja Tse) | Mera Peak | Lobuche East |
|---|---|---|---|
| Altitude | 6,189 m | 6,476 m | 6,119 m |
| Technical difficulty | Ice wall at 40 to 50°, fixed rope, final ridge | Steady snow slope, one short step below the summit | Steep snow and ice slopes, fixed rope on the summit section |
| Valley | Imja, above Chukhung | Hinku, remote, east of the Khumbu | Khumbu, near Lobuche |
| Total duration | 18 to 20 days with Everest Base Camp | 16 to 18 days from Lukla | 17 to 19 days with Everest Base Camp |
| Summit day | 10 to 12 hours from base camp | 8 to 10 hours from High Camp (5,800 m) | 8 to 10 hours from High Camp |
| View | South face of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu | Five 8,000 m peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Kangchenjunga | Everest, Nuptse, Pumori, Ama Dablam |
Island Peak: the technical summit in the heart of the Khumbu
Island Peak is called Imja Tse in Sherpa. It rises at the head of the Imja valley like an island in a sea of glaciers, hence its name. Base camp is at 5,100 m, three hours from Chukhung. Summit day starts around 1 am. You first walk over scree and rock slabs, then put on crampons at the edge of the glacier at around 5,700 m.
The crux comes after the glacier: an ice wall 100 to 150 m high, angled at 40 to 50 degrees, fitted with fixed ropes by the guides. You climb it with an ascender (jumar) and come back down by abseiling. Above it, a narrow snow ridge leads to the summit. It calls for sure footing and no fear of heights.
Its great advantage: it combines with the Everest Base Camp trek. You climb Kala Patthar, go through Chukhung and attempt the summit already acclimatised. In 18 to 20 days, you have done both.
Mera Peak: higher, simpler, wilder
The Hinku valley
Mera Peak is the highest of Nepal’s trekking peaks. You reach it through the Hinku valley, east of Lukla, an area with very few lodges or trekkers. Access means crossing the Zatrwa La pass (4,610 m) in the first few days, so acclimatisation has to be managed carefully. We prefer to avoid this pass on a longer, gentler route via Paiya and Pangkongma.
The climb
From Khare (5,000 m), you climb to Mera La base camp, then to High Camp, at about 5,800 m, perched on a rock above the glacier. The summit is done at night, roped up, on a wide and steady snow slope. The only steep section is a 30 to 50 m step below the central summit, fitted with a fixed rope. The real difficulty lies elsewhere: altitude, cold (often minus 20 °C at the start) and length.
The reward is unique in Nepal: from the summit, you can see five of the fourteen peaks over 8,000 m. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kangchenjunga.
Lobuche East: the third option
Lobuche East (6,119 m) is the closest to the Everest trail. You climb it from a High Camp at 5,400 m, on snow and ice slopes steeper than Mera’s, with fixed ropes on the summit section. It is more technical than Mera, a little less than Island Peak, and the view drops straight down onto the Khumbu Glacier and Everest. It combines with Everest Base Camp or with the crossing via Gokyo and the Cho La, which gives perfect acclimatisation before the summit.
Permits and costs
All three peaks require a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), on top of the usual trekking permits (Sagarmatha National Park and Khumbu municipality, explained in our guide to trekking permits). The NMA permit can only be requested through a licensed Nepali agency. Its price depends on the season: spring is the most expensive, autumn costs about half, and winter and the monsoon are at the lowest rate. The fees were revised recently: allow a range of $175 to $350 per person depending on the season, to be confirmed at the time of booking. On top of this comes a $500 rubbish deposit per group, refunded on your return if the camp is left clean.
The rest of the budget covers the climbing guide, group equipment (ropes, tents, stoves), porters up to base camp and hire of personal gear. We quote for each project individually. Our guide to the budget for a trek in Nepal gives the orders of magnitude.
Equipment
On top of standard trekking gear, you need:
- expedition boots or stiff mountaineering boots, warm down to minus 25 °C, compatible with step-in crampons;
- crampons, an ice axe, a harness, a helmet, an ascender, a descender, two screwgate karabiners and a sling;
- a thick down jacket, mittens, a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of minus 20 °C;
- category 4 glacier glasses, a head torch with new batteries.
Technical gear can be hired in Kathmandu, Namche Bazaar or Chukhung. We provide ropes, tents and safety equipment. Bring your own boots if possible.
Fitness, acclimatisation and season
The level required: having already done a trek above 5,000 m with no altitude problems, being able to walk 8 to 10 hours with 1,000 m of ascent, and for Island Peak, having learnt to climb on a fixed rope and abseil back down. Our guides run a day of ice school at base camp for beginners.
Acclimatisation is the number one factor in success. The summit is never attempted before day 12. On Island Peak, you benefit from the nights in Dingboche and Chukhung. On Mera, we add two nights in Khare. The rule of 300 to 500 m per day above 3,000 m, explained in our article on altitude sickness, applies even more strictly.
The best windows are October-November and April-May. Autumn offers stable skies and well-packed snow. Spring is milder but cloudier in the afternoon. December is still possible for those who cope best with the cold. For the rest of the region, see the Gokyo page and the list of our treks in Nepal.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need to be a mountaineer to climb Island Peak?
No, but you need to learn the techniques: walking in crampons, climbing a fixed rope with an ascender, abseiling down. A day of training at base camp is enough for a walker who is at ease in the mountains. A fear of heights, on the other hand, is a real obstacle on the final ridge.
How long does Mera Peak take?
16 to 18 days from Lukla back to Lukla on the gentle route, with two spare days for summit weather. Add the flights and 2 days in Kathmandu: allow 3 weeks in Nepal.
What is the success rate?
It depends mainly on acclimatisation and the weather on the day. With rest days and a spare day for the summit, the vast majority of prepared walkers reach the top of Mera. Island Peak sees more people turn back, often at the foot of the ice wall.
Can you combine Everest Base Camp and a summit?
Yes, it is actually the best way to arrive acclimatised. Island Peak and Lobuche East fit onto the Everest trek, with or without the detour via Gokyo and the Cho La. Mera Peak is done separately, in the Hinku valley.
