“I’d like to do the Annapurna Circuit alone, without an agency. Is that possible?” It is one of the questions we are asked most often. The answer changed in 2023, then again in 2026. Here is where the rules stand, what they mean in practice, and what “going alone” means in Nepal today.
The rule since April 2023: a guide is compulsory
Since 1 April 2023, the Nepal Tourism Board has required every foreign trekker to be accompanied by a licensed guide, employed by a registered trekking agency, in national parks and conservation areas. This covers almost all the well-known treks: Everest, the Annapurnas, Langtang, Manaslu, Mustang, Dolpo, Kanchenjunga. The one notable exception is the Everest region, where the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality refused to enforce the rule, and you still meet trekkers without a guide. Checks can change, so ask before you go. The TIMS card, compulsory on these routes, is no longer issued to trekkers without a guide.
The official reason: safety. Every year, solo trekkers went missing or died of altitude sickness without anyone knowing where they were. The less official reason: to support jobs for guides and porters, who were hit hard by the pandemic.
What changed in March 2026
In the so-called “restricted” areas (Mustang, Manaslu, Tsum, Upper Dolpo, Kanchenjunga), you used to need at least two trekkers to get the permit. A single person had to find a companion or pay for a “ghost permit” for a fictitious second trekker. Since March 2026, the Department of Immigration issues the restricted area permit to a single person. So you can go alone to Mustang or Manaslu, with your guide.
So what does “alone” mean?
There are two different things.
- Trekking without a guide: this is no longer allowed in protected areas. On the few trails outside protected areas, it is still possible, but there are not many of them and they are not very interesting.
- Trekking alone, without a group: this is entirely possible, and it is in fact the most common option with us. You set off with your guide, perhaps a porter, and no one else. You choose your dates, your pace and your stages.
A solo trek with a guide gives you the freedom of travelling alone, plus safety and the people you meet along the way.
What a guide really changes
Many experienced trekkers see a guide as a constraint. After the trek, almost all of them say the opposite. A good guide:
- keeps an eye on your acclimatisation and knows how to spot altitude sickness that is getting worse;
- finds a room in high season, when the lodges are full;
- handles the permits, checkpoints, domestic flights and jeeps;
- explains what you are seeing: the villages, the monasteries, the festivals, people’s lives;
- and, in English or French, lets you talk with the local people.
What about a porter?
A porter is not compulsory. Some trekkers prefer to carry their own bag. But above 4,000 m every kilo counts, and a 15 kg pack turns a lovely day into an ordeal. A porter carries the belongings of two people, up to 25 to 30 kg in total. He also supports a family in the valley. We recommend one for all treks longer than 8 days.
How much does it cost to go alone with a guide?
The price of a trek is made up of permits, transport, accommodation and meals, the guide and the porter. Only the guide and the porter are shared when there are several of you. So on a solo trek, you pay for the guide on your own. With two people, the cost per person drops sharply. From four people upwards, it changes little. We prepare a precise quote for every request: tell us the trek, your dates and how many you are.
Frequently asked questions
What happens if you go without a guide anyway?
You may be refused entry at the park checkpoint or fined, and above all there is no organised rescue if something goes wrong. Insurers may also refuse to cover a trek done outside the rules.
Can you hire an independent guide, without an agency?
No. The rule requires a guide employed by an agency registered with the government. It is this agency that obtains your permits and is responsible for you.
Can a woman trek alone in Nepal?
Yes. Nepal is a safe country for women travellers, and many of our female clients go alone with Mohan or a guide from the team. Tell us your preferences and we will take them into account when choosing the lodges and the team.
Rules in force in September 2026, as published by the Nepal Tourism Board and the Department of Immigration. They may change; we update this page whenever they do.
